“OST OST OST BERLIN” echoes around the stadium in a repetitive, unified chant from the fanatical supporters’ block at BFC Dynamo. This is Europe’s largest youth subculture and a big part of it is graffiti. BFC Dynamo is a fourth-division club from Berlin, Germany. The vibe in their stadium is worlds away from the image Berlin projects to the world—of its free-spirited, hippieish, party-going population.